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RAW DENIM

 

WHY OUR DENIM 

Jeans were first introduced by American soldiers, oil and gold miners and they quickly became a fashionable item in American Culture and soon all over the world. Denim made in the 1960’s created a life long legacy; ring-spun and rope-dyed yarns woven on shuttle looms. American manufacturers have since then moved toward cost-efficient methods of mass production. AKINGSNY finds the balance between traditional and modern manufacturing. We value manufacturers who have kept the old-school tradition alive; by valuing the quality of the denim over quantity.  As the number of machinery and skilled traditional craftsman dwindle, we'll be the powerhouse uniting modern technology closer to traditional denim. 

"Better a little which is well done, than a great deal imperfectly."   -Plato

Selvedge denim

Made using vintage low speed looms called shuttle looms, a small wooden shuttle containing the weft yarns weaves the fabric as it is “shuttled” back and forth along the loom. On each pass the shuttle seals the edge of the fabric creating a “self edge”, hence Selvedge Denim.  Shuttle looms are slower, louder and require the skill of master artisans to operate.  The end result is a denim with a hand woven feel that cannot be mass produced.  

Rope Dying

Japanese raw denim is highly sought after for its fading properties.  The process starts with cotton yarns bundled into a rope and then dipped in a sequence of indigo dye baths.  Between dips the yarns are exposed to the air and the absorbed indigo slowly oxidizes turning the yarns blue.  This process is then repeated multiple times in order to obtain the desired shade of blue.  The yarns are never left in the indigo dye long enough for the dye to penetrate to the core of the yarn. The outer circumference of the yarn is dyed with multiple layers of indigo dye, while the core remains white.  Denim crafted from rope dyed yarns will gradually shed or ,in other terms, "break - in" layers of indigo and slowly reveal the white core yarn underneath. The result is a jean with characteristics and personality unique to the wearer. 

SO YOU'VE DECIDED THAT YOUR JEANS ARE READY FOR A WASH.

Turn the jeans inside out, and fasten the front buttons or zippers (This avoids abrasion to the denim while washing) soak the jeans in a tub using cold water. (This will minimize indigo dye loss). Note, if the jeans are very dirty you can use a small amount of detergent. Gently scrub the jeans and let them soak for about an hour.  Remove the jeans from the tub, and rinse the jeans with water to remove any leftover dirt, dye or detergent.  Ring out any excess water, and finally hang them to dry.  The jeans may feel a bit tight after wash, but will soon stretch back out to normal with wear.

THE EXTREME WAY 

Let your jeans get dirty for as long as possible.  This can range to at least 2 years or even more, depending on how dedicated you are.
For the first washes we suggest you dry clean your jeans.
After the first wash, you should soak your jeans for about an hour in water with a little Woolite added, this is a special detergent that helps retain your denim's color.  You can then rinse and hang up to dry for a few hours. 

THE SIMPLE WAY

Soak your jeans for about an hour in water, rinse, wring and hang up to dry.

THE MACHINE WAY

Machine wash at 30°C (90°F), delicate cycle, no spin cycle. 
 

THE SEAWATER WAY

Go swimming in the ocean wearing your jeans, rub them with dry sand and repeat several times. Rinse in fresh (not salt) water and dry out in the sun.

 

Maintenance

Jeans are not indestructible; no other garment is worn as frequently or as hard as a pair of raw denim jeans. The longer you wear your jeans between washing, sweat, oil and dirt build and weaken the cotton fibers and it is possible for holes to form in the future.

Regular maintenance, not only will it prolong the life of your jeans, it also adds great deal of character. 

Patch up any small holes using a small piece of denim from our repair kit.

-An inside patch is recommended for a cleaner look.

-A patch on from the outside for a more vintage look.

-Try using a contrasting patterned fabric to add personality. 

-Freeze your denim to remove bad odor or to kill any bacteria.